36-hours in IslaMorada (the Florida Keys)
From Michael Bennett
After the third bridge you cross, you will discover our American Caribbean is becoming Miami's favorite three-day vacation spot.
The Florida Keys have always been featured ubiquitously as a place to slow down and savor captivating subtropical experiences from around the world yet, most will never get a chance to participate in it like a local. This local enthusiast will clue you in on all the unique things that seem to slip by beyond note.
To Start:
You should fly into Miami airport before 9 AM to make this plan work. If you get into rush hour traffic, no one will enjoy their stay here. Get on the turnpike, head south, and get out of the city as fast as you can. Florida’s Turnpike could become a giant parking lot between 3 pm and 7 PM.
Next clue, if you visit during any holiday, expect to be in your car idling to your next spot to catch. It could take an hour to drive the 23-mile stretch between Miami and the Keys. If you do hit rush hour, and it is the beginning of a weekend, any weekend, don't continue down US1 (the Stretch, as we call it). Instead, take Card Sound Road at Mile marker 121 and go east. It is a beautiful, easy bypass for that traffic on US1.
As you traverse bridge after bridge, you will feel your
blood pressure drop and tranquility seems to wrap around you.
Life seems simpler:
As you cross bridges traveling south of the mainland, the islands you are driving across barely seem as wide as the road. It is then you will realize Miami's U.S. Highway One is now a slim roadway stretching across the Ocean. The broad stretches of rural and city environs on the sides of this road have been replaced with azure Ocean water.
The Florida Keys have always attracted its share of Pirates, Misfits, and Real Estate Capitalists. These days, it has become the fishing and relaxation capital of South Florida. It is still a place where one can discern hints of bygone era Keys-style of dwellings, many are still roughed up from the last Hurricane. This area is infamous for and has grown because of our treacherous Hurricanes. As Hurricanes stylize our latest incarnation of “Keys-Style” architecture and one can recognize a myriad of off-the-wall Keys-style remnants like; Marlin, Flamingo, and Manatee-shaped mailboxes. Hurricanes continually leave our paradise disfigured yet, rival keeps us well-seasoned and ready for the next.
What was once a sun-baked, humidity-rich, casual holiday escape is replete with a multitude of stylish multi-million dollar homes, exceptional all-inclusive Caribbean-style resorts, and multi-million dollar restaurants that draw the attention of who call themselves our “New-natives” and contemporary adventurers.
So you should permit this three-day guide to help you feel like a “Belonger” (Native) because this weathered, lifelong Floridian has the insider's story on what you will see in America’s Island Shangri-La.
The Florida Keys and Isla Morada:
Isla Morada is a tropical island 20 or so miles south of the beginning of the island chain, which is the isle of Key Largo (at MM 99) . Key Largo is the first on this chain of islands and is larger in every way compared to Isla Morada. Isla Morada comprises six lush smallish islands (starting at MM 92) stretched across the ocean that has collected a community of well-heeled families, of old-money heritage, and a earned reputation as the sport fishing capital of Florida. Both of these came together from the fishing tournaments that our previous President George H.W. Bush ran for a decade.
Map of IslaMorada with Mile Marker (MM) guides.
As you start to breathe easier:
Multiday excursions stemming from South Florida have always been our bread and butter, year-round visitor yet, for most far-flung adventures, the first stop after a long ride from the airport is to stop, mingle, shop and see our famous mammoth lobster curiosity - “Betsy the Lobster”. Standing nearly 30 feet high and 40 feet long, in front of a collection of Keys-y shops, she is an artsy spectacle from years past. Almost everyone that visits here stops for a picture with Betsy. Quirky as Betsy might seem, she epitomizes the Keys lifestyle, the Isle of Morada that has become the heart (she is located at MM 86.7) of the Keys. This statue reminds everyone that, our local Lobster fisherman and merchants trade, and its subordinate commerce, have blossomed after the last decade to provide as much money to our local economy as the tourist trade does.
Betsy is hunkered down right in front of the Rain Barrel Artisans Village (at MM 86.7). It is a dandy open-air market where you can find local arts and crafts, souvenirs, gifts, jewelry, clothes, and that special commemorative T-shirt to take home. It might be the perfect example of how the old Key lifestyle has evolved over the decades. You will find a few of these “keys-y” menageries as you drive south.
The best:
Literally across the Highway, the best bagels south of Philly are made. They originated this bagel eatery with their restaurant in Marathon (at MM 50), an island south of IslaMorada. This outpost is a welcome sight for us locals. An afternoon exploring the Keys could not be complete without bagels and coffee from here. Don't forget to tell them that I said to try their smears. The bacon-scallion is my favorite cream cheese spread/smear. They can close early if they run out of bagels, so plan for an early pickup.
Start your afternoon right:
A visit to our nearest brewery and namesake, the IslaMorada Brewery, (located at MM 82.2) is now a distillery as well. Comfortable nibbles, a vast variety of beers are on tap and fanciful drink concoctions will get you in the right "Keys" frame of mind. It might be the first place that has made it so big in Islamorada, they had to build a 40,000 sq. foot plant 100 miles north of us to supply the increasing demand for their products developed that also continues to be produced on IslaMorada.
Settle in but start planning for the next day:
Have your lodging secure and be sure you have reservations months in advance if you plan to be here between December and May. Cheeca Lodge, smack in the middle of everything IslaMorada (located at MM 82), is your perfect bet. Cheeca Lodge & Spa is a vintage property that has IslaMorada roots that go back to 1946.
It’s no wonder the recent Netflix three-season series “Bloodline,” a dark story built around a prominent Keys family, was based in affluent Islamorada. Filming was done on Cheeca Lodge's sister resort property: Casitas at Cheeca. It is where the original copy of Pierre's at Morada Bay (located at MM 81.6) was used for filming scenes. For these reasons and so many more, Pierre's at Morada Bay and Cheeca Lodge have always had the perfect settings for the island's most noteworthy media events and the best tropical American wedding destination.
Getting to your hotel, Cheeca Lodge, you can helicopter in, float up by boat or drive up in your car and your energetic bellmen will whisk you up to your room overlooking the waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Cheeca Lodge, the place where Presidents stay, is close to everything. Most visitors leave their cars in the parking lot and seek simpler transportation to get around the 20-mile-long group of six tiny islands. People usually choose beach bikes, and golf carts for larger groups and others take advantage of our "Freebee '' electric car to get around IslaMorada. It runs most of the day, and you only have to tip the driver. This way you can engage in the best of the island's libations, and it won't be the cause of a ticketed license. Some smaller electric vehicles (golf carts and scooters) in Florida still do not require a license to drive.
When you need to Woo the one you Adore:
On the very first night, Pierre's at Morada Bay is the perfect way to celebrate any special occasion. The restaurant's exterior architecture is a tribute to the Southern colonial. Inside, the first floor is an expertly adorned and fashionably exquisite lounge reminiscent of the finest private men's club. No one ever guessed that this is resting atop the first-class, wine cellar that stretches the entire length of the building.
Pierre's, walking up from the massive beach seating
In the lounge, dining at the gossamer, hand-polished wood, 20-seat bar, you will be treated to refined starters and a narrowed sampling of main plates from the main kitchen. Their chef said that "There will soon be a second downstairs kitchen added this year for our winter season visitors." "This menu will reflect opulent food curated from across the world." Chef Alan Wilkinson continues to tell of imported nibbles from the Mediterranean. They will be highlighted with first plates and full entrée courses including fashionable sautéed local seafood dishes and luxurious sauces, making Pierre's a plenary culinary performance.
A few steps out of Pierre's lounge and outside the ornate windowed doors, you will walk towards a beautiful waterfront sunset. Now being on the sands of Morada Bay or dining on the classic wraparound beachfront terrace, you lust for a capricious culinary adventure. Both of these dining venues are on the lower level of this restaurant's Morada Bay frontage, which becomes your scenescape for the now sun-kissed and color transforming waters of Florida Bay. “Dining here plays second only to our grandiose sunset on Morada Bay. That ocean-side beach of Isla Morada has many private places to catch a sunrise, but the two restaurants that make for a perfect IslaMorada sunset is the casual Morada Bay Beach Cafe. It is the place where Full Moon parties became famous, and it is a short walk across the beach fronting Pierre's.
Dual personality polished eatery:
“The second floor is where our culinary magic occurs”. Under the direction of the chef, you are tempted with appetizers, multi-course tasting menus, Old-World culinary classics, and Nouvelle dishes highlighted by eatables from local gardens and orchards. "Local orchards, farms, and private ranches supply us most of what is on the menu. "Everything from classic and Nouvelle entrées that range from duck to 90-day in-house dry-aged steak, to denizens from the deep" says the chef. The chef’s dry aging techniques for beef, duck, and finfish are one of a kind for the Florida Keys.
Pierre's dining room
The next morning, diving:
After such a glorious evening at Pierre’s, the next day plans must include an early departure for a morning reef dive. Any atoll will be memorable, but going to Alligator Reef (leaving from MM 95.3) is a popular local choice. The Alligator Reef is still an immense attraction for the worldwide diving community. Once you get under the crystal waters of the Atlantic, you will see why, as you gawk at all our tropical and exotic varieties of fish. You might see everything from the smallest reef dotty back fish to sea mammals like whales, and for sure you will see porpoises.
Chartered reef tours:
There are many companies here to help you explore the underwater reefs of the Florida Keys. One of our best is AquaBlue Adventures, where you can rent a float board for the entire day. They supply watercraft for local bar hopping water taxis, snorkeling dive boats, or boats for a private sunset cruise. Just about anything can be arranged. Float boat and snorkeling tours explore the vibrant corals and the tropical fish they support in 70 square miles of protected nearby waters. If there is one thing you have to achieve while you are in the Keys is to look for wreck dives. Going back to the time of Pirates in the 17th and 18th centuries, ship wrecks made our earlier Floridians famously wealthy.
When you arrive back on shore:
You won't have to look far to have something to do next. One time I came back to shore and a New York fashion photography crew was using the Morada Bay Cafe’s beach as their backdrop. Another time, a music video and then a commercial for Bacardi rum was being filmed. You might see Music, TV and Movie celebrities at any turn dining at the Café. Other times you might find that long-lost friend hiding out from the world sitting on the barstool next to you. Many people come here to hide from the world, so it has become a haven for reclusive music and TV stars. One of my favorite bar stools to find long-lost friends is IslaMorada’s Hog Heaven (located at MM 95.3). It is a roadhouse-style eatery that is furnished in the typical funky fashion. Good eats and BBQ smoke from the multiple smokers' envelope most of the outdoor perimeter.
Travel South of Isla Morada in the Afternoon:
This Island of Lower Mactecumbe is where the only source of freshwater was found, and this allowed IslaMorada to flourish. Going to Lower Mactecumbe has to include Robbie’s (located at MM 77), where you will realize this is the emblematic Florida Keys menagerie. It is also the place Floridians have been famously feeding Tarpon the size of teenagers for three decades. From here, you can jump off the island and grab an Ocean canoe and scoot across a narrow ocean divide to explore and delve deep into Key's history.
Indian Key Historic State Park:
This is an 11-acre, mangrove-fringed island, which hold the remains of a Florida Keys historic “wrecking” village, which became devoted to salvaging goods from ships that ran aground. In its earlier history, Indian Key was the seat of Dade County, with limited housing and an Inn, that promised health benefits to those suffering from heart disease. It became a famous sport fishing community that people from around America wanted to visit.
The islands discovered and developed by “Wreckers” - were thought of as the marauder of Pirates Day. These prowlers were the people who waited for a ship to hit a reef and sink, and then be the first ones to find it. The law at the time was first on board, took the loot. This became an industry that enriched Key West residents to the point that Key West had more millionaires per square mile than any place in the United States.
What you will see:
While on the water or just feet away, people are drawn to our perfect blue water. Leave IslaMorada at noon, and travel south, when the sun is at its highest point in the sky as it breaks the water’s surface and drills down to the sea floor, it makes the reefs display an unreal and glowing blue. Going south and crossing the Channel 5 bridge (located at MM 71), you will see this for yourself. This is where you can travel across a bridge and feel as though you are flying in an airplane. The bridge is so high and the blue vistas stretch out for dozens of miles, you might just see Cuba's smog out in the distance. The Key's best bridge for the view, I usually like to go across twice, so I can see the bluest water in the world.
Once across the sky bridge, a secret spot awaits.
Less than a mile south of the Channel Five bridge is Fiesta Key recreational vehicle (RV) resort (located at MM 70). Drive in and up to the security guard shack. Tell them you are here to go to the restaurant. It might be one of the best places in the Keys to get lost for an entire afternoon-where you will not to be found until you want someone to. Just go up to the restaurant’s service counter, and order a bucket of alcoholic beverages and some Keys nibbles. The Lobster roll was a hit the last time I was there. Grab a beach lounge chair, dip your toes in the sand, and look out onto one of my favorite views of the entire chain of islands.
The Next day, experience the Weekend, notably in a Keys style:
No trip to IslaMorada could be complete without indulging in our Sandbar Sunday. It happens every weekend and is the waterborne equivalent to your entire family’s once-a-year backyard Fourth of July BBQ extravaganza aboard various sandbar hovering boats. This is where you will find the New Native residents partying along with a New York weekend Warrior. It is what we do here to make the islands different from other South Florida vacation spots. It is the thing you can not miss while you are here.
Visitor tips:
Any weekend in the Keys, you will experience the IslaMorada crawl. It is a pheromone that surprises me to this day. For no particular reason, all auto traffic slows to a crawl going south starting on Friday and then slows to a crawl going north every Sunday evening.
To see the entire Island might take more than 3 days;
….especially while you are sitting on a bar stool, and you start meeting people from all over the world. This always happens to me in Key West. I am sure you will experience this during your visit to any Florida Island community.
Park your car:
You won't need it unless you leave to visit another island. Use the free car service called "Freebee". Or just rent a golf cart or beach bike from your hotel. There are multiple places across every island to find rentals.
There are very few sandy beaches here:
Don't expect to be sunning yourselves with your toes in the sand. Most of every island has a rocky shoreline. That is how the islands came to be. We are coral reefs raised above the water. When you get to know the Keys, you will discern this.
Season vs. Off-season:
Everything is easier on the budget during August and September. Because this is when Hurricane strikes are most common. Plan around these weekends, and you'll save a lot on rooms and get discounts at restaurants. For the family, I would suggest the winter months, because it is so much better weather and more comfortable.
Shopping:
There is everything here if you are willing to travel. There are a multitude of T-Shirt shops and are a popular choice to get a remembrance of our visit. In any T-shirt shop throughout the Keys, you will find appropriate comparative representations of where you spent your vacation.
Buying groceries for an extended stay:
Not too many choices here on the island of IslaMorada. Going off the island to Tavenier will save you a lot. Since you are here for a weekend, you will not be shopping for groceries. There are too many choices for food in local restaurants.
If you have a boat and or need gas:
Get filled up on the mainland. Prices here are always higher here. If it seems high on the mainland, our prices will shock you.
IslaMorada Hotels~where you want to stay:
Can you book an Airbnb:
Yes. Houseboats, sailboats, condos, and houses can all be rented here. Most families share a larger house with another family to lower the cost. December through May is the height of the season for us when every hotel is booked solid. You might also have to wait hours for a table at a local restaurant during dinner time rush hour. For restaurants, try lunchtime hours of the day and happy hours to have quicker service.
The Islamorada Paradise House:
It is the famous Rayburn home on an 18-acre beachfront oasis in IslaMorada (at the Moorings Village, located at MM 81.6). Tropical, tranquil and untouched, the former coconut plantation boasts over 800 palms and a private swimming pool. Catch the sunrise in a 3 bedroom vintage home situated on the Atlantic Ocean, featuring a private beach directly on the ocean. There are oceanfront views from every room. This is the house of the Rayburn's family home in Showtime’s TV “Bloodline” (three season) series show.
Lime Tree Bay Resort:
Set on a white-sand beach (located at MM 68), this upscale oceanfront venue is less than 9 miles from our favorite: Dolphin Research Center. There is a quarter-mile beach, 2 pools, and a fishing pier.
The Oceanview Inn and Sports Pub:
This laid-back, (located at MM 84.5) is a 4-minute walk from the Theater of the Sea marine park. Anyone who is a Pittsburgh Steeler Fan has to make a stop here. The outdoor pool offers a waterfall and a poolside barbecue pit. There's also a pub-style sports bar serving classic American fare. Check out their special event nights happening every week. Monday is local's open mike night, with excellent entertainment that has a former member of Lynyrd Skynyrd as a regular musician.
Bud and Mary’s Marina:
This historic marina hotel (located at MM 79.8) is set on a working marina, and occupies both a main building and multiple houseboats. It's 5 miles south of the Theater of the Sea marine park and 6 miles from the recently refurbished Anne's Beach. Houseboats have kitchenettes, while a penthouse option adds a full kitchen and a deck. Some quarters have extra bedrooms. There are also ocean-based Sportsmen include an on-site fishing store and a deli, plus boat docks.
About the Author and FoodBratz.com
Chef Michael Bennett has become an Author and has published Eight books written to reflect the healthier side of classic recipes from the American, Spanish, and French Caribbean. His latest recipe book deals with Cancer and how proper recipes help to fight the disease.
FoodBrats.com was founded in 1991 and as a "budding" Chef | Author Press services provider for chefs and soon to be authors. FoodBratz.com is America's first QR code enable cookbook publisher. FoodBratz.com provides Chefs | Authors with direct and personal access to quick, quality orientated publication in paperback, and full four-color formats.
